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Long-form guides, traditions, recipes and practical know-how — written by travellers who keep coming back.
cuisinePillowy pieces of dough fried until golden, served with honey, jam or salty cheese — the breakfast you didn't know you needed.
cuisineSome fish taste of a place. Koran tastes of Lake Ohrid — one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe, straddling the border between Albania and North…
cuisineWhite feta-style brine cheese, fresh whey gjizë, mountain kashkaval — the country's dairy is more diverse than first meets the eye.
cuisineAlbanian qofte are smaller, spicier and sometimes funkier than the Balkan kebab cousins. A guide to the regional varieties.
cuisineIonian octopus, mussels, sea bass, prawns and the universal grilled fish — eating seafood on the Riviera is half the trip.
cuisineAlbania's national dish: lamb baked in a thick yogurt-and-egg crust until it sets like a savory custard. Born in Elbasan, eaten countrywide.
cuisineWhere to eat the most authentic Albanian food in each major city — our editorial pick of family-run, time-tested institutions.
cuisineAlbania has a 4,000-year-old wine tradition that almost died under communism. The post-2010 generation is rebuilding it — here are the wineries to visit.
cuisineWhat to eat in Albania — 15 traditional dishes from byrek and tavë kosi to Riviera seafood and raki. Where to find each one and what to expect.
cuisineAlbania drinks a startling amount of coffee. Here's what to order, where, and why an Albanian café visit takes two hours.
cuisineLayered phyllo, cheese, spinach or meat — byrek is the country's default breakfast and the snack you'll probably eat every day.
cuisineGrape raki, mulberry raki, plum raki — the welcome drink, the post-meal drink, the at-any-time drink. A short guide to surviving (and enjoying) it.
cuisineSome dishes are defined by their ingredients; flija is defined by patience. This spiral of paper thin batter, built up layer by layer over glowing coals,…
cuisineFërgesë is the dish that tastes most like a Tirana summer. At its heart it is nothing more than peppers, tomatoes and fresh curd cheese, softened in olive…
cuisineTirana eats on its feet. Between the morning coffee ritual and the long dinner, the capital runs on a handful of hot, cheap, portable staples that locals…
cuisineWild thyme, chestnut, and forest meadow honeys from the Alps and the south — what to look for and where to buy real, raw, unpasteurised jars.
