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Long-form guides, traditions, recipes and practical know-how — written by travellers who keep coming back.
cuisineA 4-million-year-old lake species, koran is what you eat in Pogradec — usually grilled simply with lemon and oil.
cuisineLayered phyllo, cheese, spinach or meat — byrek is the country's default breakfast and the snack you'll probably eat every day.
cuisineAlbania's national dish: lamb baked in a thick yogurt-and-egg crust until it sets like a savory custard. Born in Elbasan, eaten countrywide.
cuisineAlbania drinks a startling amount of coffee. Here's what to order, where, and why an Albanian café visit takes two hours.
cuisineWhite feta-style brine cheese, fresh whey gjizë, mountain kashkaval — the country's dairy is more diverse than first meets the eye.
cuisineIonian octopus, mussels, sea bass, prawns and the universal grilled fish — eating seafood on the Riviera is half the trip.
cuisineA spiral of thin batter pancakes layered with cream, cooked over open coals — flija is mountain Albania on a plate.
cuisinePillowy pieces of dough fried until golden, served with honey, jam or salty cheese — the breakfast you didn't know you needed.
cuisineWild thyme, chestnut, and forest meadow honeys from the Alps and the south — what to look for and where to buy real, raw, unpasteurised jars.
cuisineAlbania has a 4,000-year-old wine tradition that almost died under communism. The post-2010 generation is rebuilding it — here are the wineries to visit.
cuisineEat your way through Tirana for €5 — the city's under-the-radar street food essentials.
cuisineWhere to eat the most authentic Albanian food in each major city — our editorial pick of family-run, time-tested institutions.
cuisineGrape raki, mulberry raki, plum raki — the welcome drink, the post-meal drink, the at-any-time drink. A short guide to surviving (and enjoying) it.
cuisineAlbanian qofte are smaller, spicier and sometimes funkier than the Balkan kebab cousins. A guide to the regional varieties.
cuisinePeppers, tomatoes, cottage cheese, all baked together until creamy — Tirana's simplest love letter to summer produce.
