Flija — the layered pancake of the Albanian Alps

Flija is northern Albania's signature party dish — and a bit of a workout to make. Crepes-thin batter is poured layer by layer onto a hot saç (a flat metal disc), each layer brushed with thickened cream and cooked under hot coals before the next. The result is a spiral of dozens of paper-thin pancakes that you tear apart with butter, honey or sour cream.

Where to eat it

In Theth, Valbona or Vermosh, every guesthouse will make it on request — usually with 24h notice. In Tirana, Mullixhiu offers a refined version.