Byrek — the soul of an Albanian breakfast

Walk into any Albanian bakery between 7 and 10 a.m. and you'll see trays of golden, glistening byrek being cut into squares. It's the country's most democratic food — eaten by farmers, lawyers and presidents alike, costs about €0.80 a slice, and comes in a rotating cast of fillings.

The fillings

The holy trinity is gjizë (fresh whey cheese), spinaq (spinach with onion) and mish (minced beef). Beyond that you'll find leeks (presh), pumpkin (kungull), tomato, even nettles in spring.

How it's made

Unlike Greek phyllo pies, Albanian byrek often starts from a single sheet hand-stretched until you can read newsprint through it. The sheet is folded with filling between layers and baked until the edges shatter when you cut them.

Where to try the best

• Tirana: Shendelli (Pazari i Ri) and Furra Misto.
• Berat: any small bakery in the old town.
• Sarandë: Sofra e Detit on the promenade.

Pro tips

• Ask for byrek me gjizë if you want classic cheese.
• Eat it standing up — it's street food, not a sit-down meal.
• Pair with dhallë (salted yoghurt drink) for the local move.