Top things to do in Sarandë

Sarandë curves around a wide horseshoe bay at the southern end of the Albanian Riviera, close enough to Corfu that the Greek island shimmers on the horizon each evening. It is part resort town, part springboard: the base from which travellers reach some of the country's greatest sights, and a lively seafront in its own right once the sun goes down. Give it two or three nights and you can build an itinerary that mixes ancient ruins, turquoise water and long Mediterranean dinners.

The unmissable day trips

Butrint, a short drive south, is the reason many people come. This UNESCO-listed ancient city — Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian in turn — sits on a wooded peninsula between a lagoon and the sea, and a slow morning among its theatre, baptistery and forest paths is one of the finest half-days in the Balkans. Inland, the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) is a mesmerising spring where impossibly clear water wells up from deep underground. And just south, Ksamil's shallow turquoise coves are an easy afternoon's swim.

In and around town

Climb to Lëkurësi Castle above the city at dusk — the ruined Ottoman fort frames a postcard view over the bay, Ksamil's islands and the lights of Corfu across the strait. Down in town, join the evening xhiro, the ritual seafront stroll, and settle in for grilled fish and cold white wine at a waterfront taverna. Swimmers can head to Mirror Beach (Plazhi i Pasqyrave) just north of town for clearer water than the central promenade offers.

Planning tips

Sarandë makes an excellent southern base: it links easily by ferry to Corfu for a day in Greece, and by road to the hill city of Gjirokastër. Late spring and September bring warm sea without the August intensity. Rent a car or line up transfers in advance — the best of the south is spread out, and the connections between sights reward a little forward planning.