About two kilometres inland from Durrës's beaches, "SAF" Homemade & Traditional Food is a family-run kitchen where dishes run around five euros each and the yoghurt is made in-house. Little English gets spoken, so ordering often turns into pointing and Google Translate, but the fërgesë and tavë kosi have been called the best either dish travellers ate in six months living in Albania. Locals treat it as a neighbourhood staple, and the perfect 5.0 score across 659 reviews is rare for anywhere, let alone a budget spot.
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