Tucked into the lanes of Durrës' Old Town, this Trajan-era amphitheatre was built to seat 20,000 spectators for gladiatorial games — the largest such structure raised anywhere on the Balkan Peninsula. Wander the fenced perimeter and you find yourself dropping into cave-like underground passages far larger than the exterior suggests, with fragments of mosaic surviving in a small chapel built later into the ruins. Most of the marble steps were long ago carted off for other buildings, but what remains still rewards an unhurried walk, especially when the archaeological museum nearby is shut.
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