The overtourism warning — Ksamil, Theth and what to do about it

Albania's tourism boom has been dizzying, and two places feel the strain most sharply. Ksamil, the tiny resort near the Greek border, and Theth, a single mountain village in the northern Alps, were both built for a fraction of the crowds they now receive at peak. Loving them without adding to the problem is entirely possible — it mostly comes down to when you go and how you behave once you're there.

Ksamil in August

Ksamil's islets and improbably clear water made it famous, and in July and August the beaches fill wall to wall with sunbeds. Development has raced ahead of the infrastructure meant to support it, and the small streets clog with cars. The fix is timing: come in June or September, when the sea is still warm but the density halves. Arrive early in the day, walk to the quieter southern coves, and consider basing yourself in Sarandë and visiting as a day trip rather than adding to the village's summer load.

Theth under pressure

Theth is a protected village of stone houses, waterfalls and the famous trail to Valbonë. Its charm is its smallness — which is exactly why August overwhelms it. Guesthouses book out, the single road backs up, and the fragile alpine setting shows the wear. Go in late June, September or early October for thinner crowds and clearer air, book your guesthouse well ahead, and carry out everything you carry in.

Or choose the alternatives

Albania is full of near-equals that see a fraction of the footfall. For beaches, Borsh offers seven quiet kilometres, and Gjipe hides a dramatic cove below a canyon. For mountains, Valbonë, Vermosh and the valleys of the Gashi river give you the same peaks with room to breathe.

Travel in the shoulder season, spread your money to smaller family-run guesthouses and tavernas, and you help keep these landscapes worth the journey.