Himarë — the Riviera's laid-back middle

Himarë sits at the exact midpoint of the Albanian Riviera, roughly halfway between Vlorë to the north and Sarandë to the south. It has the same clear Ionian water and pine-backed coves as its flashier neighbours, but it runs at a lower volume: beach clubs that fill gently rather than roar, tavernas where dinner stretches for hours, and a walkable little town with a genuine year-round life of its own. The area has a long Greek-speaking heritage, and you'll hear both languages in the cafés along the front.

The beaches

The town beach at Spile is convenient but not the reason you came. The good stuff is a short drive either side. Livadhi, just north, is the broad, organised bay with sunbeds and restaurants. Potami sits below the old town, backed by cypress and olive. Further out, Llamani, Jala and Gjipe reward anyone willing to walk a footpath or take a boat — smaller, wilder, and often quieter even in season. A boat trip to the secret coves south of town is the single best half-day you can spend here.

The old town and the castle

Above the modern strip, the old town of Kastro clings to the hill inside the walls of a Byzantine-era castle. It's half-ruined, half-restored, threaded with stone lanes and a few tavernas that open for sunset. Climb up in the late afternoon when the heat drops and the light turns gold over the water.

When to go and how to arrive

June and September are ideal — warm sea, manageable crowds, softer prices. July and August are busy but never Ksamil-busy. Most travellers arrive by the coastal road: over the Llogara Pass from Vlorë, or up from Sarandë. Buses and furgons run the coast in summer, but a car makes the surrounding coves far easier to reach. Local kitchens lean on the day's catch and the citrus grown on the slopes behind town, so order the grilled fish and whatever's in season. Come for the swimming, stay for the pace.