Dim lighting and low music set the tone at Painted Black, a Rruga Hajdar Hidi address that reviewers keep calling their favorite brunch in Tirana as much as their favorite date-night dinner. The rigatoni and casarecce draw repeat orders, the carbonara gets compared favorably to Rome, and the French toast — whimsically plated, one regular says — has become something of a signature alongside a classic tiramisu. Non-smoking indoors and chic without feeling stiff, it holds 4.6 stars across more than 500 reviews.
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