You reach the terrace at Café Butterfly by walking straight through the kitchen — an odd, memorable entrance that opens onto castle-quarter views over old town Himarë. The two women running the place bake their own cakes daily, and the honey-walnut slice alongside a slab of trileçe has become the reason travelers detour up the hill after visiting the fortress. Fresh-squeezed orange juice and a properly made cappuccino round out what is, at heart, a family kitchen with a view most restaurants would charge triple for.
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