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Berat (UNESCO, the Mangalem quarter inside is still inhabited — you can sleep within the castle walls) and Gjirokastër (one of the largest in the Balkans, with a Cold War tunnel beneath and a military museum) are the headline acts. Krujë carries Skanderbeg's legacy. Rozafa above Shkodër has the best lake views.
Yes for all major ones (Berat, Gjirokastër, Krujë, Rozafa) — open 7 days a week. Standard hours: 9am–6pm in summer, 9am–4pm in winter. Smaller hilltop ruins (Petrelë, Preza, Porto Palermo) have flexible hours; just walk up.
Yes — at Berat. Several family-run guesthouses (Hotel Klea, Berat Castle Hotel) operate inside the castle walls in the still-inhabited Kalaja quarter. €30–60 per night. You wake up to medieval stone alleys and a church bell.
