Vermosh — Albania's northernmost village, alpine pastures, kullas

Vermosh is the last village in Albania before Montenegro, the northernmost inhabited point in the country, folded into a green alpine valley in the Kelmend highlands of Malësi e Madhe. Reaching it is half the reward. The road climbs from Koplik through the Cem gorge and the village of Tamara, then crosses high passes past flower-strewn Lëpushë before dropping into Vermosh's broad, pasture-lined bowl.

Getting there

The drive from Shkodra takes roughly three to four hours on a road that is spectacular and unhurried in equal measure — hairpins, single-lane stretches and the occasional herd crossing. A sturdy car helps, and in the shoulder seasons it is worth checking conditions, as snow lingers at altitude well into spring. There is no railway and only limited seasonal minibus service, so most travellers drive or arrange a transfer from Shkodra.

What makes it special

This is Kelmend at its most pastoral: hay meadows, grazing flocks and the Vermosh river running clear and cold along the valley floor. Scattered among the houses you will still see kulla, the stone tower dwellings tied to the old mountain code, the Kanun, with its traditions of hospitality, sworn refuge and blood feud. In summer the surrounding peaks open walking routes toward the Montenegrin border and the wider Prokletije, the Accursed Mountains that ring this corner of the Balkans.

When to go and what to eat

Come between June and September, when the passes are clear and the meadows are at their greenest; nearby Lëpushë hosts a lively highland gathering in high summer. Expect simple, generous mountain cooking — flija baked in thin layers over embers, fresh dairy and gjizë, spit-roast lamb, river trout and the region's prized wild honey.

Practical tips

Stay in a family bujtina, where half board is the norm and the welcome is genuine. Bring warm layers even in July, as nights are cool, carry enough cash for your stay, and download offline maps before you set off — mobile signal comes and goes in the mountains.