Gjirokastër — the stone city
Slate-roofed Ottoman mansions clinging to a steep hill, a vast 12th-century castle on top, and the birthplace of writer Ismail Kadare.
Why Gjirokastër?
Gjirokastër is the south's UNESCO twin to Berat — slate-roofed Ottoman mansions stacked up a steep hill under one of the Balkans' largest castles. It's smaller, slower, and more architecturally distinct.
When to visit
May, June, September, October. The Folk Festival (every five years, next 2028) packs the castle with traditional polyphonic singers from across the Balkans.
Where to stay
A traditional kullë (tower house) — try Stone City Hostel, Hotel Çajupi, or boutique stays inside the old town. €25–€80.
What to eat
Qifqi (rice balls — only here), pasha qofte (Ottoman meatballs), and lamb. Taverna Tradicionale and Odaja are reliable.
Don't miss
- The Castle — military museum, Cold War prison cells, bird's-eye over the city
- Skenduli House — perfectly preserved Ottoman mansion
- Cold War Tunnel — secret bunker beneath the city
- Blue Eye of Saranda (45 min south) and Antigonea ruins (15 min away)
How to get there
From Tirana: 4h by car. From Sarandë: 1h. Gjirokastër is the natural stopover between the south coast and central Albania.