The climb up to Gjirokaster's castle earns a reward at the top: Te Kalaja, a family-run kitchen on Bule Naipi where the owner's hospitality gets mentioned almost as often as the food. Breakfast omelettes come light and perfectly set, the Tave Kosi and stuffed eggplant pull from deep in the Albanian traditional repertoire, and an Oshaf dessert closes the meal on a note reviewers call unexpectedly memorable. Nearly 4,800 Google reviews hold at 4.9 — an almost unheard-of consistency for a restaurant with this much foot traffic from castle-day visitors.
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