Taverna Panorama Zhuli asks for a walk up the hill behind Gjirokastër's castle, and those who make the climb are rewarded with a perfect 5.0 across 1,389 ratings and a view over the fortress and mountains that regulars say makes the meal feel like an event. The kitchen is genuinely family-run — the wine reportedly comes from an uncle who makes it himself, and the cooking has the unmistakable hand of a grandmother figure at the stove — with qifqi, the local fried rice balls, singled out as the dish to start with. Order the mixed plate, away from Gjirokastër's busier bazaar restaurants.
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