S&P is the kind of neighbourhood place Gjirokastër locals actually eat at - an elderly couple runs the kitchen and dining room themselves, and reviewers keep comparing them to their own grandparents. English is limited, but patience and a translation app get you through the ordering, usually toward the meatball casserole or a plate of savoury eggplant, with fresh fruit sometimes appearing at the end unasked. A few diners note the food doesn't always arrive piping hot, but at these prices nobody seems to mind. It holds a perfect 5.0 across 327 reviews, rare for a restaurant this unpretentious.
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