Everything at Velia (Traditional Food) near Gjirokastër centers on a host named Natasha, who reviewers describe less as a restaurateur than as family — she'll walk you through fërgesë and byrek if you ask, and serves half-portions to solo travellers without being asked twice. The Velia salad, made with wild cabbage and figs, gets called a must-order by regulars. Every review in its 360-strong tally rates it perfect, a 5.0 average that's rare for any restaurant in the country.
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