Tucked into Gjirokastër's old bazaar, Restaurant Gjoça Tradicional is run by an elderly couple whose spinach pie breaks from the usual flaky version — dense and hard-baked, one pie easily covers two people, fueling visitors before the climb up to the hilltop castle. Grape-leaf dolma, meatballs and grilled aubergine round out a firmly homestyle menu. The food and the grandfatherly welcome win consistent praise, but a handful of diners flag bills higher than the menu suggested, so it's worth counting your change.
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