Relax Valbona's dining room sits by the valley's blue river with the peaks of the Albanian Alps rising straight off the water, and the kitchen leans into that setting with traditional Albanian cooking served in portions clearly meant to refuel a day of hiking. Riverside outdoor tables, good grilled fish and cheese, and bio-farmed ingredients keep the food side of the reviews strong, even though a few guests note the breakfast spread runs smaller than the dinner ambition would suggest. It works best as the meal that follows — or precedes — a long walk up toward the passes.
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