Tucked into the stone lanes of old Qeparo i Sipërm, a hilltop hamlet above Borsh, Ida & Xhorxhi is run by a mother and daughter whose slow-cooked goat and oversized minced chops keep travellers driving up from the coast. The courgette balls and just-picked tomatoes taste of the terraced hillside itself, and dinner comes with a soundtrack of sheep bells drifting up from the olive groves below. With a flawless five-star average across 274 reviews, it has become one of the Riviera's quiet obsessions. A small shop downstairs sells coffee to those in no hurry to leave.
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