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The Balkans' largest lake opens out from Shkodër in a wash of wetlands, water lilies and reed islands, and reviewers keep circling back to the boat ride as the moment that sells it — herons lifting off ahead of the hull, the water turning gold toward sunset. A small island holds the ruins of a medieval monastery, reachable if a boatman's headed that way, and the villages ringing the shore stay quiet even when the lake itself, at 4.7 stars from 614 reviews, draws a steady stream of day-trippers from both Albania and Montenegro.
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