Founded, tradition holds, by King Pyrrhus in honour of his wife, Antigonea spreads across a ridge above the Drino Valley near Gjirokastër, its excavated sections giving way to wildflowers, sheep tracks and long stretches of solitude. April visitors find the site at its most vivid, green and in bloom, though a prized mosaic stays covered and is rarely uncovered for viewing, and the ticket booth is sometimes unstaffed even during posted hours. What it lacks in polish it makes up for in scale and setting — extensive excavated ground, bilingual signage, and views over the valley that reviewers call unforgettable.
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