On the Lake Ohrid shorefront in Pogradec, Restaurant Bizantin plays it both ways — steakhouse plates and Italian pasta share a menu that also runs to sushi, and the kitchen handles all of it well enough that regulars call it the best meal they've had in the country. It sits a notch above the average local taverna in price, and diners generally agree the jump is earned, from the elegant, warmly lit dining room to attentive service that holds up under pressure. Weekends bring live music loud enough to fill the room, so anyone after a quiet dinner should aim for a weekday visit instead.
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