The Kanun — the medieval code that still echoes in modern Albania

Few things reveal the old soul of the northern Albanian mountains like the Kanun — a body of customary law that ran the highlands for centuries without a single courtroom or written statute. For travellers it isn't a museum piece so much as a key: understand the Kanun and you understand why an Albanian host treats you like something sacred, why stone tower-houses have such tiny windows, and why the north feels so fiercely proud.

What the Kanun was

The Kanun — most famously the Kanun of Lekë Dukagjini, named for a 15th-century northern nobleman — was oral customary law: rules for family, property, marriage, hospitality and honour, memorised and passed down through generations rather than written. It governed the highland clans of the north, from Dukagjin and Shkodër to the valleys of Theth and Kelmend, in the long centuries when central authority barely reached the mountains. It was finally written down in the early twentieth century by the Franciscan priest Shtjefën Gjeçovi.

The ideas that survived

Two concepts still shape everyday Albania:

• Besa — a given word, an unbreakable pledge. To hold your besa is the deepest point of honour.
• Mikpritja — hospitality as sacred duty. The Kanun placed the guest above the household; the traveller was protected absolutely, even a stranger, even an enemy.

You feel these directly today: the coffee you can't refuse, the family that insists you stay for dinner, the sense that being a guest carries real weight.

The darker chapter — and today

The Kanun also codified gjakmarrja, the blood feud: honour killings answered by killings, families locked in cycles that could confine men inside their own tower-houses for safety. Communism suppressed the whole system; some feuds re-emerged in the hard 1990s. Today gjakmarrja is rare and shrinking, confined to isolated cases in the far north — not something a visitor encounters.

Where to feel it

Head to the northern Alps — Theth, Valbonë, the Shkodër highlands. The stone kulla tower-houses, the small heritage collections in mountain villages, and above all the hospitality you'll meet on the trail are the Kanun's living echo. Come with curiosity and good manners, and the mountains open up.