Albania in 7 days: a self-drive itinerary

Albania drives surprisingly well in a week, as long as you know what to fit in and what to save for another trip. This route is built for drivers entering from the north with their own car — either through Montenegro toward Shkodër, or through North Macedonia via the Qafë Thanë crossing — who want both the historic interior towns and the Riviera coast in one loop. Distances look short on the map, but mountain roads eat time — plan the driving legs for mornings, not evenings.

Day 1 — Crossing in and Tirana

Head straight for Tirana on day one, whichever border you cross — it's typically a 2-3 hour drive from either direction. Spend the evening walking the main boulevard, stopping at the repurposed Pyramid (now a cultural space), and having dinner in Blloku, the former Communist-era elite quarter, now full of terraces. Don't overload the first day — it's for landing, not for sightseeing sprints.

Day 2 — Tirana to Berat

A short drive, roughly 2 hours, to Berat, the "town of a thousand windows" and a UNESCO site — arguably Albania's most photogenic inland town. Climb to the castle for the view over the Mangalem and Gorica quarters, with Ottoman houses stacked up the hillside, then head back down for a dinner featuring local specialties — the area is also known for its wine. One night is enough at a brisk pace, though a second is worth it if you're not rushed.

Day 3 — Berat to Gjirokastër

The longest driving day of the trip, 3-3.5 hours, but also the most scenic inland stretch — the road follows the Vjosa river valley, one of Europe's last major undammed rivers, running an almost surreal turquoise in summer. A stop at the Bënjë thermal springs near Përmet is worth the detour if time allows. Gjirokastër, Albania's other UNESCO town, greets you with an imposing hilltop fortress and grey-stone tower houses. In the evening, the old bazaar is the spot for dinner and small souvenirs.

Day 4 — Gjirokastër to Sarandë, via the Blue Eye and Butrint

Short on distance (under 2 hours to Sarandë) but packed with stops. Visit Syri i Kaltër (the Blue Eye), a karst spring with intensely blue water, then the Butrint archaeological site — a Greek-Roman-Byzantine ancient city, also UNESCO-listed, set in a striking lagoon landscape. Arrive in Sarandë or straight into Ksamil by evening, where you'll base yourself for the next two nights.

Day 5 — Beach day in Ksamil

A driving-free day devoted to Ksamil's beaches and the small islands offshore, reachable by boat. For quieter water, go early or pick the less central stretches — the main beach area fills up fast, especially in summer. Alternatively, spend the day on the Sarandë promenade, looking out toward Corfu.

Day 6 — Albanian Riviera: Sarandë to Vlorë

The real road-trip day, along the coastal route linking Sarandë to Vlorë — the most spectacular stretch of the whole itinerary, and the most demanding behind the wheel. Stop in Himarë for the beach and the view, in Dhërmi for one of the Riviera's best-loved beaches, then climb the Llogara Pass, with tight switchbacks and sea views from altitude. Descend into Vlorë by evening. Budget at least 3-4 hours of actual driving for this leg alone — with beach stops, it can easily become a full day.

Day 7 — Return

From Vlorë, depending on your return direction, the drive to the border — back through Tirana toward North Macedonia, or north via Shkodër toward Montenegro — takes 2-3 hours. If your flight home is from Tirana, leave enough buffer for city traffic on the way in.

Route tips

• Main roads are generally in good shape; mountain stretches (Llogara, the Vjosa valley) are narrow and demand careful driving, especially behind trucks or coaches.
• Fill up opportunistically — fuel stations are sparser on mountain stretches than you'd expect.
• Avoid driving Llogara after dark if you don't know the road; in daylight, the view is part of the experience.
• Parking in the historic centers (Berat, Gjirokastër) is limited — good accommodations usually offer a spot or point you to one nearby.
• Don't push more than two "heavy" towns per day — Albania is more tiring to drive than the map distances suggest, purely because of the mountain roads.

A shorter version

With only 5-6 days, skip the overnight in Berat (visit it briefly en route to Gjirokastër instead) and keep the Riviera intact — the coast is usually the main reason people come to Albania, and the inland towns are the cultural bonus, not the core of the trip.

Verdict

This route covers, in a single week, everything that sets Albania apart from an ordinary beach holiday: two UNESCO towns, a turquoise river canyon, ancient ruins, and the most spectacular coastal drive in the region. If you have to cut something, cut from the interior, not the Riviera — the coast is why most Romanian travellers come to Albania, and Berat and Gjirokastër, however beautiful, are the complement, not the centerpiece.